1. Mix Design: No calcium chloride accelerators, no use of applied surface curing compounds, and minimal usage of flyash. The more portland cement content, the deeper the colors. Minimum 5 sack mix.

2. To achieve a polished, marbleized finish on interior applications, the slab must be hard troweled or power-troweled by the concrete finishers. Burnishing the surface creates more marbleized effects. Exterior applications should be broom finished or textured and sealed with a skidguard additive in the sealer.

3. The finished floor is a direct result of it’s being free of any foreign substances. Cover and protect the slab from sub-contractor activity.

4. The following substances can penetrate the surface and stain the slab: red framer’s chalk, permanent markers, wax pencils, adhesives, oils, gas, primer, paint, stain, sealers, caulk, pvc primer/cleaner, pvc adhesive, food, grease, beverages, and rust from metal or nails. Lumber, wood boards, sawdust, plywood, and plastic all draw moisture from the slab. If left, they can transfer resins and water stains to the slab. Drywall installers frequently use a spray adhesive on the outside corner beads- this adhesive is usually invisible until after staining. The adhesive can be cleaned from the surface but sometimes penetrates- blocking the stain. There are remedies for some of these problems but usually translate into higher costs for preparation.

5. All stains on the floor, chips in the concrete or cracks will still be evident after the work is completed. Any patches in the concrete will also be visible. Remember, we are making the floor look “aged”, some defects are acceptable.

6. Owners, builders and contractors are solely responsible for the condition of the floor prior to our commencing work. Insist they each take responsibility for your floor.

7. Some masking tapes can remove or leave residue on the sealer. If the painters must use tape, make sure they use green tape, 24 hour tape, craft paper and drop cloths. Ask that they not leave tape down for more than 72 hrs.

8. Scoring is performed shortly after the forms are removed. If done after framing, borders must be cut and then run the score lines up to the border. Grouting with sanded tile grout is an option to achieve a more realistic look.

9. Timeline: in most cases we try to clean, stain and apply the first coat of sealer after 28 days of curing or soon after framing or dry in - before insulation and sheetrock. The slab can be stained later in construction but there are more unknowns as to what has been spilled, dripped, etc. on the slab. After all other trades are finished, final cleanup consists of scrubbing and wet vacuuming the floor, application of the final coat of sealer, and application of wax.

10. Floor surface can be marked by heavy furniture or metal objects. When moving furniture it is always best to pick up and set in place rather than slide it across the floor.

11. After the inspection of the finished floor, it is the responsibility of the owners, builders, and or general contractors to protect the finished floor until occupancy.

12. Maintenance: Walkoff mats outside the entrances can catch the majority of the sand, dirt and abrasives. Clean these mats regularly.
To maintain the floor- dustmop and sweep on a regular basis. Occasionally scrub/mop with a neutral cleaner- change water frequently to avoid streaking. To rejuvenate the shine apply a high traffic floor finish/wax using a rayon mop. The wax can usually be found in janitorial supply stores or the cleaning products aisle in Home Depot or Lowe’s. If you have any questions you can call 918-520-5999 for more info.